If you've ever spent hours trying to figure out whether a used Bobcat T590 is a good deal, or you're hunting for a specific UTV part and getting the runaround, you know the frustration. I've been there too—coordinating emergency parts for contractors who've broken down mid-job, and helping weekend warriors get their machines running for a project.
Here's the thing: finding the right bobcat compact track loader models or bobcat utv parts isn't rocket science, but it does require a system. Most people skip a few critical steps.
I'm going to give you a 4-step checklist that works whether you're buying a used loader, tracking down a specific part, or just trying to understand the basics of related equipment like a bucket golf setup or a drill press for fabrication work.
Step 1: Identify Your Exact Bobcat Compact Track Loader Model
This sounds obvious, but I've seen guys show up to buy a 'bobcat' and not know which model it is. It's the difference between getting the right part in 2 hours vs. 2 weeks.
What most people do: They just look at the brand and assume all Bobcats are the same. They miss the model number completely.
Here's what you need to do:
- Find the serial number plate: It's usually on the left side of the engine compartment, near the oil filter or on the frame rail.
- Decode the model: Bobcat uses a letter-number system (e.g., T590, S650, E32). The 'T' means tracked; 'S' means skid-steer; 'E' means excavator. The number indicates size and horsepower.
- Use a free database: I always use Bobcat.com to look up the operator's manual and specs for free.
Take it from someone who once ordered a set of undercarriage parts for a T770 and got them for a T590: the model number is everything. The size difference is huge.
Step 2: Master the Bobcat UTV Parts Hunt (The Right Way)
This is where people waste the most money. They either buy the wrong part from Amazon or pay full retail at a dealer because they're in a rush.
Most people focus on price first and completely miss the manufacturer number. The question everyone asks is 'how much?' The question they should ask is 'what's the OEM part number?'
Here's my system for finding parts quickly and cheaply:
- Get the OEM number: Look up the parts diagram on Bobcat's website for your specific model. It's free. Write down the 6-10 digit number.
- Search for cross-references: Many Bobcat parts are made by other manufacturers (e.g., hydraulics are often Eaton or Parker). Search that OEM number independently on Google or a site like Messick's.
- Check salvage yards first: For mechanical parts (not wear items like filters), a used part from a salvage yard (like MachineryTrader) can save you 50-70%. I've done this for dozens of UTV parts. One time, a client needed a rear differential for a 2018 Bobcat Toolcat. Dealer wanted $1,200. Found one used for $350. Saved the job.
- Use a local dealer for filters and fluids: It's not worth the shipping cost for a $15 oil filter. Just go to the local Bobcat dealer.
To be fair, new genuine Bobcat parts are expensive. But there's a reason. According to USPS pricing effective January 2025, shipping a heavy part from a dealer cross-country can cost you $25-$80 on top of the part price. That's where local salvage yards win.
Step 3: Understand the 'Bucket Golf' Connection (It's Real)
This might seem like a weird keyword, but it's a perfect example of why you need to know your equipment's specs. Bucket golf is a training exercise where you use a skid-steer or compact track loader to move golf balls into a bucket using the bucket. It's a skill test.
Why this matters for your parts search:
If you're buying a used machine, ask if it's been used for bucket golf or similar precision work. Machines used for training are usually treated more carefully than those on a construction site. I worked with a contractor who specifically bought a used T590 from a training center because it had fewer hours and was maintained better for bucket golf drills.
Insider tip: Check the bucket edge. On a machine used for training, it's usually flat and sharp. On a construction machine, it's often dented or worn. That tells you everything about the machine's history.
Step 4: Know Your Shop Equipment (Drill Press & Air Compressor Basics for Fabrication)
So you've got your Bobcat or UTV parts. But if you're doing any fabrication—building a new bucket, modifying a mount, or making custom brackets—you need to understand your shop tools.
Let's talk about the drill press and air compressor:
I'm not a metal fabricator, so I can't speak to welder calibration. What I can tell you from a procurement and maintenance perspective is this: a crappy job on a drill press can ruin a $500 part.
Key drill press tips for fabrication:
- Use a center punch first. If you miss the mark by 1/16th of an inch, your bracket won't fit.
- Use cutting fluid (WD-40 or proper oil) for steel. Running a drill into steel dry will dull the bit in seconds and cause burns.
- Clamp your work piece down. I've seen a piece of steel get caught in a drill bit and spin, hitting a guy in the chest. Not good.
Now, about the air compressor:
If you're running impact wrenches or air tools to work on undercarriage bolts or UTV tires, you need to know how an air compressor works. Here's the basics:
- Piston moves down -> creates a vacuum -> air rushes in -> piston moves up -> compresses air -> pushes it into storage tank.
- Power is measured in CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute). A 1/2" impact gun needs about 5-6 CFM at 90 PSI.
- Most 15-amp shop compressors (like the ones you'd use for bucket golf maintenance) produce about 6-7 CFM. That's enough for most tasks.
- Problem: Buying a compressor that's too small. You're better off with a 60-gallon tank than a 30-gallon tank if you ever plan to run a sandblaster or a plasma cutter.
My rule: Spend your money on the compressor. A cheap drill press will do okay for a while if you replace the bits. But a cheap air compressor will frustrate you every single day.
Common Mistakes (From Experience)
I've processed hundreds of parts orders. More often than not, the delays come from these two things:
- Not verifying the model before ordering. I had a guy in March 2024 call at 4 PM needing a final drive motor for his Bobcat. He was 99% sure it was a T595. Turned out it was a T595E (a different spec). Cost him $850 in rush shipping and a missed deadline.
- Thinking 'universal' parts fit. They don't. 'Universal' is a promise you shouldn't trust for anything critical like hydraulic lines or drive belts.
Final thought: Whether you're a contractor needing a part to finish a job, or a hobbyist setting up a workshop with a drill press and an air compressor, the key is the same: know the exact model and spec first. The rest becomes a lot easier.
--
This guide is based on my experience coordinating parts and equipment for construction and industrial clients. For specific technical specs on your Bobcat model, always refer to the official operator's manual.
